What It’s Really Like to Hike the Ladder of Kotor

A complete guide to the Ladder of Kotor hike, including difficulty, routes, trailheads, variations, whether you can include the fortress, and practical tips about what it’s really like.

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The Ladder of Kotor is one of the most rewarding hikes in Montenegro, and you can do it directly from Kotor’s Old Town, climbing high into rugged mountains above. The historic trail zigzags up the steep slopes with increasingly spectacular views over the Bay of Kotor.

We hiked the Ladder of Kotor during our first week (out of five) in Montenegro and were blown away by the views, which were some of the best we saw during our whole trip – and for relatively little effort and no money. But the Ladder of Kotor isn’t as straightforward to plan as you might expect. There isn’t a huge amount of reliable information about the hike, and you’ll find several different versions of the route online, often with conflicting distances, timings, and directions. Information about access to the fortress is also particularly out of date, with plenty of guides still suggesting routes or entrances that are no longer accessible.

We spent quite a bit of time figuring out what was actually possible before setting off, and then scouting out the trail ourselves, so this guide is based on what we found when we hiked it ourselves recently. Discover everything you need to know about the Ladder of Kotor hike, including the actual route, distance, elevation gain, how difficult it really is, how long it takes, where to start, the best viewpoints, what to expect on the trail, what to pack, when to go, and our tips for hiking it safely, in this complete guide.

What is the Ladder of Kotor hike?

The Ladder of Kotor (also called the Ladder of Cattaro) is a historic mountain trail climbing from Kotor towards Krstac Pass, following the old route that once connected Kotor with the inland village of Njeguši and Cetinje. Climbing it is one of the best things to do in Kotor.

Rather than simply admiring the mountains from below, the trail takes you right into them, following an old military route through rocky terrain, switchbacks, and sections of exposed hillside. It was once a lifeline between the coastal towns and those in the mountains.

Rather than being an actual ladder, the name refers to the trail’s seemingly endless series of zigzags – there are more than 60 switchbacks along the route.

Before we get to the trail stats, let’s clear up some misconceptions:

People have really overcomplicated the hike over the years, especially when you could do variations into the back of the fortress. But nowadays your only option really is an out-and-back hike up and down the zigzagging trail, with a little out-and-back detour to the church at the back of the fortress if you’d like, which we’ll cover.

Where is the Ladder of Kotor?

The Ladder of Kotor starts just outside the northern side of Kotor Old Town and climbs the mountainside behind the city. From the lower sections of the trail, you’ll quickly start getting views back across the rooftops of Kotor and the spectacular Bay of Kotor, with the views becoming more impressive as you gain height.

The top of the ladder sits at about 600 metres (1,940 ft) above sea level at the end of the switchbacks.

The trail does continue to climb, and if you followed it further, you’d eventually reach the P1 road near Krstac Pass, which sits at about 900 metres (3,000 ft) above sea level on the route towards Njeguši and Lovćen National Park.

Ladder of Kotor Trailhead

There is only one trailhead for the Ladder of Kotor hike, which makes things simple. It’s located just outside the Old Town by an old power plant. It might seem a bit random without much signage, but the trail is pretty obvious once you reach it.

If you’re walking from the Old Town, it’s easy to reach by exiting through the River Gate (North Gate) near Cat Park and crossing the Škurda Bridge before turning right to reach the trailhead.

If you’ve rented a car in Montenegro and are driving into Kotor, leave plenty of time, especially in the morning rush hour and in traffic, as congestion around the bay is horrible. The closest public car park to the trailhead is Parking Benovo, but we always used Parking Autoboka, which reliably had spaces and was quite affordable compared to other parking areas in town.

Ladder of Kotor Map

There are quite a lot of maps of the Ladder of Kotor trail online, and none of them is terribly accurate.

This popular AllTrails map is super popular, but it actually only goes as far as the Cheese Shop, and that’s not actually the top of the ladder, so it doesn’t reflect the full distance.

There are also quite a lot of maps which show a route up to the top of the ladder and then a second route down through the fortress, but they’re all out of date now that you can no longer enter through the back window of the fortress.

How far is the Ladder of Kotor hike?

The exact distance of the hike really depends on where in the old town you start from, whether you reach the top of the ladder, and if you take any detours to the church and back of the fortress. But to give you as accurate a measurement as possible, from the trailhead to the top of the ladder and back is around 6 miles (9.5 km) return. We’d recommend 4.5-5.5 hours for the whole out-and-back route, not including stops.

If you’d prefer to do a shorter walk, you can go up to the Cheese Shop and back, which is a popular shorter alternative to the full ladder. That’s only about 2.5 miles (4 km) return and takes around 2 hours.

If you’d prefer to do a longer walk, you can continue from the top of the ladder to the P1 road and Krstac Pass, which is about 8 miles (12 km) return and takes around 5-6 hours. There are even more options to then extend your hike even further than that, which we cover later.

How difficult is the Ladder of Kotor hike?

The difficulty of the Ladder of Kotor hike depends quite a lot on how fit you are and how much of the ladder you tackle. Difficulty is subjective, so we’re going to try and explain what it’s like so you can judge how easy you’d find it, rather than just slapping a level of difficulty on it.

The Ladder of Kotor is the first hike we did in Montenegro. We used it as a warm-up for more challenging hikes we had planned later, including the Three Peaks in Prokletije National Park and Bobotov Kuk in Durmitor National Park. There’s no doubt that it’s easier than both of these hikes, but it was more challenging than we were anticipating.

We’d personally call the hike moderate to reflect a couple of factors:

Experienced hikers might call the Ladder of Kotor easy, whereas I think if you’re an average tourist and not prepared for the full hike, you’d find it difficult. We saw several groups of young travellers climbing up the ladder in the heat of the midday sun in plimsoll shoes with slippery soles and sandals, which must have made it much harder.

Our experience hiking the Ladder of Kotor

As we’ve mentioned, the Ladder of Kotor was the first of a series of hikes in Montenegro that we undertook. It really spoiled us, because it gave us some of the best views from a hike that we’ve ever seen.

We did set off with expectations of a slightly easier and much faster hike – most other online accounts don’t really reflect how much we like to stop for photos and to admire the view. In the end, it took us longer than we thought it would. Our total time was around 5.5 hours, but we weren’t hiking all that time – we had lots of stops, some time in the cheese shop for snacks on the way down, and a detour to the church and back of the fortress, too.

But we were also surprised that, as a hike, it was easier than we were expecting. 60+ switchbacks is no joke, but it means you slowly meander your way up the mountain, rather than having to tackle a steep incline, so it was a much gentler ascent than we were worrying about.

It’s not only a great way to escape the cruise ship crowds in the Old Town, but one of the best reward-to-effort hikes in the country.

Below, we’ve broken down step-by-step exactly what the hike was like.

What it’s like hiking the Ladder of Kotor

We planned our Ladder of Kotor hike to start bright and early, but in true Lucy and Dan fashion, by the time we’d had breakfast, packed our bags, and got out of our accommodation, it was slightly later than we were aiming for. Thankfully, we were staying in Viktor’s Rooms, which is right by the trailhead, so we didn’t have very far to go.

Setting off

The trailhead was pretty easy to find, and you can hear the thrum of the power plant as you pass by it. As we set off, about 50% of the trail was already in sunshine by 8:30-9:00 AM in early May, so our plan to beat the heat had only worked so-so. But we had a lovely breeze.

The very start of the hike is fairly unremarkable, but that doesn’t last for long. You join the gravel trail which begins to gradually incline. It’s pretty stony underfoot, so we’d recommend proper walking shoes with good grip.

You’ll know you’re going the right way, as the trail is marked with obvious red-and-white waymarkers.

As you climb, keep looking back, as that’s where the best views are. We began to get glimpses of the red roofs of Kotor behind us.

The switchbacks

Very quickly, you reach the beginning of the switchbacks. There are around 65 of them, but the exact number sort of depends on whether you count the corners at the beginning of the hike and how far you continue on after the final viewpoint.

One advantage of the trail repeatedly zigzagging backwards and forwards is that you’re constantly changing direction and getting a slightly different perspective of the views. They’re pretty tight at the beginning, so you’re turning corners fairly often.

The first part of the hike heads up the trail parallel with the western wall of the San Giovanni Fortress, so you get really beautiful views of the fort as you climb.

The walls are part of a defensive system developed over many centuries, incorporating Illyrian, Byzantine, Venetian, and Austrian influences, with the present-day fortifications largely shaped during the Venetian rule.

The incline

The incline was actually much gentler than a lot of the other hikes that we did around the country. We’d brought our trekking poles, but found we didn’t really need the assistance on the way up. It’s a pretty steady ascent, so you can find a comfortable rhythm and stick with it most of the way.

At around the 25th switchback (we counted it as 26), there’s a small café/tea shop (Kuca Milenko Franović) and one of the possible spur trails to the church and back of the fortress. Being early, it didn’t look open, so we continued up the main trail.

Passing the Cheese Shop

Nestled around the 30th switchback (we counted it as 34) is the famous Cheese Shop and another detour path to the church and back of the fortress. We’ll come back to these later, but if you’re only doing the shorter version of the trail, you can end your hike here.

From here, the distances between switchbacks get longer, so you’re turning corners less frequently, but you still have quite a lot to go to the top.

The first viewing platform

After the Cheese Shop, the trail gets steeper and rockier, and the views begin to widen out. We started to see a much more expansive panorama that’s more similar to the pictures of the Bay of Kotor you’ll see on postcards.

Around the 40th switchback (what we counted as 42), there’s a little staircase that detours from the trail – take it! It leads up to a flat concrete block that acts like a viewing platform with some really epic views over the bay.

This is a great place for a photo, and we met a lovely couple of ladies here who we ended up trading photos with – they took a picture of the two of us together, and we returned the favour.

The views

The views are obviously one of the main reasons to hike the Ladder of Kotor, and it’s not hard to see why Kotor has been internationally recognised. The Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979.

Looking down towards Kotor, you can see just how tightly the Old Town sits between the mountains and the water. Further around the bay, the surrounding mountains gradually come into view, and you can see other neighbourhoods like Dobrota to the north or Kotor and the small town of Muo on the opposite Vrmac Peninsula.

Our kitty spirit guide

About two thirds of the way in, we met a beautiful ginger cat, who became our four-legged hiking companion. We later found out that it belongs to the owners of the Cheese Shop, who also had some gorgeous little kittens, so we were pleased it was so well looked after (as were the cats of Kotor, to be fair).

Snakes and ladders (and lizards)

As we climbed, we could tell we’d left the town behind for the countryside. There was more foliage lining the paths, and we began to see a few green lizards.

Apparently, another name for the Ladder of Kotor trail is Kačje Stepenice (The Snake Steps), so called for its snake-like appearance, but we were met with another kind of snake on our way up.

As we neared the top, we saw a couple of brown snakes. At first we heard rustles in the bushes and assumed it was lizards until a huge snake went slithering down the path ahead of us at top speed. We didn’t manage to get any pictures because, quite frankly, we just froze in shock.

They’re probably more afraid of us than we are of them, but be careful where you put your feet.

Nearing the top

As you get higher, the character of the trail changes again. The views become increasingly expansive, the surrounding landscape feels more mountainous, and you start getting a much stronger sense that you’ve actually climbed a long way above Kotor.

We also began to get views into the neighbouring Škurda Canyon, which is popular for canyoning tours, and towards the Luštica Peninsula.

The final ascent

The last part of the trail is a bit of a slog, because you can literally see the top, but you have several quite long switchbacks to cover before you reach it. There are a few trails where people have left the switchbacks to take shortcuts on the steep mountainside, but we wouldn’t recommend them because they’re much steeper and slippery (plus it’s pretty inadvisable considering the snakes).

The top of the ladder

Finally, you’ll reach the end of the last switchback (around 60) and you’re at the top of the Ladder of Kotor! There’s no official sign or anything, you’ll only know because the switchbacks end. The trail continues from here away from the coastline and heads into the forest.

There’s a nice little wall to sit on at the top, which is perfect for a picnic. We sat and ate our sandwiches and enjoyed the views and the exultation of reaching the top.

The spectacular stretch of water below you is the Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska), a deeply indented natural harbour on Montenegro’s Adriatic coast. Geologically, it’s a drowned river valley, with steep limestone mountains plunging dramatically into the water and creating the fjord-like landscape you see today. You can even see as far as Perast in the distance.

While there is what seems to be a path leading down onto the peninsula-like hill to this spot here, don’t bother following it. The trail’s not official and when we reached the end (after picking out our route carefully), the view was actually worse and more obstructed than from the main trail.

In total, it takes around 2-2.5 hours to the top, depending on your pace and how long you spend stopping to take pictures of the view, cats, and lizards. You could probably yomp it in 1.5 hours without stopping much, but that’d be no fun.

Can you make the Ladder of Kotor longer?

As we’ve mentioned, the top of the ladder isn’t the end of the trail. If you’d like to continue further, you have several options.

Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana

You can easily continue on the trail up through the forest to the P1 road, where there’s Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana, which makes for a good lunch stop.

The route is pretty straight with a few final switchbacks, bringing the total number up to around 70.

We wouldn’t personally recommend going any further than here, as it’s a pretty long return trip, but if you’re a really keen hiker, there are even more options.

Njeguši

From the main road, you’re close to the little town of Njeguši, known for its famous smoked ham, Njeguški pršut. There’s a zipline not far from the end of the trail, which goes right over the Krstac Pass. We wouldn’t recommend walking to the town, though, as it’s still pretty far along the main road.

If you are mega keen for a longer hike, you can continue onto Pestingrad, a peak near Njeguši, before returning to Kotor. It’s much harder than just the Ladder of Kotor, so we’d leave a full day for it, as you’re going to cover around 12 miles (20 km) and a lot of elevation gain.

Lovćen National Park

Technically, you could even continue on from the Ladder of Kotor to Lovćen National Park. We wouldn’t recommend this as an out-and-back day hike, but more of a multi-day one-way experience, as many people underestimate the distances.

Within the park, there’s the Cable Car top station and iconic alpine coaster (which is much easier to reach via cable car or driving than hiking) and the Njegoš Mausoleum, which is even further into the park and we’d consider it too far to walk to from Kotor, even though some people suggest it.

Personally, we’d recommend exploring Lovćen National Park on a separate day to the Ladder of Kotor hike, either taking the cable car up, driving there and then hiking in the Ivanova Korita area, or on a day tour.

What to see on the way down the Ladder of Kotor?

The descent down the Ladder of Kotor is obviously the same route you’ve just climbed up, but there are a couple of detours worth knowing about.

San Giovanni Fortress

The most popular addition to the Ladder of Kotor hike has been combining it with the San Giovanni (St. John’s) Fortress. Historically, there was a popular unofficial shortcut between the two routes, involving a small window in the fortress wall, which quite often had a small ladder propped against it – the cause of much confusion about what the Ladder of Kotor actually was.

This allowed hikers coming from the Ladder of Kotor hiking trail to access the back fortress without returning to the Old Town entrances, bypassing paying the entrance fee. That’s also why many maps you’ll find online show the trail up the Ladder of Kotor and an alternative option to return through the fortress. Many blogs and guidebooks also still describe this route.

But in 2026, the entrance was closed for good and the ladder removed. There’s really no point heading towards the fortress from the Ladder of Kotor now that you can’t get in the back end, unless you’d like to see the outside walls or the small church.

If you are keen to go inside the San Giovanni Fortress, you’ll have to return to Kotor down the Ladder of Kotor and then pay the entrance fee at one of the two entrances to the fortress. From there, it’s a steep climb up over 1,000 steps to reach the fort.

It’s worth noting, though, that you will see a lot of the fortress from the Ladder of Kotor hike, and because the trail climbs to a much higher elevation, the views of the bay are arguably much more impressive.

The Cheese Shop

The Cheese Shop is one of the Ladder of Kotor’s more unusual but locally famous little landmarks and makes a particularly welcome stop on the way back down. It’s a small mountain-side shop selling huge chunks of homemade cheese, bread, drinks, and other snacks, with a spectacular position overlooking the surrounding mountains. We consider it one of the best cafés in Kotor.

This is the stop we’d recommend on the way back down the Ladder of Kotor trail. It’s run by a couple and their daughter (the only one who speaks English) out of the family’s house, and it’s cash only. We were provided a ginormous wedge of cheese for €12 and lovely homemade bread for €2. Also on offer were various meats, bottled water, beer and even whiskey.

There’s a toilet on-site here for guests, which is also great as there are no facilities on the trail itself.

St. Juraj Church

From the Cheese Shop, you can follow a spur trail towards the back of the fortress. This is the route that historically led to the window that’s now bricked up, but it’s worth it if you’d like to see the little St. Juraj Church.

The church is thought to date back several centuries, although the building has been rebuilt and altered over time. An inscription records a reconstruction in 1559, giving you a glimpse of just how old the settlement and mountain route are. Pop your head inside and look at the ceiling, where you can see the remains of blue paint.

It’s associated with the old settlement of Špiljari, which sits in the rocky gorge behind Kotor’s fortifications, and you can still see the ruins of buildings in the valley.

From the church, you can follow a second trail back to the main ladder trail, which cuts out a few switchbacks.

Is the Ladder of Kotor worth it?

Yes, we’d definitely say the Ladder of Kotor is worth doing if you enjoy hiking and want to see a completely different side of Kotor. The panoramic views over the Bay of Kotor are absolutely breathtaking, but we also liked the feeling of gradually leaving the town behind and climbing into the mountains above it.

It’s also much more of a proper hike than the Kotor Fortress climb, so we’d choose the ladder if you’re looking for several hours of walking rather than simply a steep staircase to a viewpoint (and hefty entrance fee). You don’t necessarily have to complete the entire route either – even hiking part of the way gives you some fantastic views over the bay.

However, the hike isn’t for everyone, and we really don’t want to encourage people to do it unprepared. While the trail itself isn’t technically difficult, it is a long, sustained mountain walk with considerable elevation gain, exposed sections, loose gravel, and plenty of sunshine over multiple hours.

Make sure you’re comfortable with the distance and climb, wear proper footwear, take plenty of water, and check the weather before setting off. If you’re unsure whether it’s within your abilities, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with turning around – the views are still pretty spectacular even if you don’t make it all the way to the top.

If you’re after the views but not the effort, you should consider taking the Kotor Cable Car or driving the winding Kotor Serpentine road for equally impressive vistas.

When to hike the Ladder of Kotor

The best time to hike the Ladder of Kotor is as early as possible to beat both the crowds and the heat. But you don’t have to get up at the crack of dawn. Because of the way the mountains surround the Bay of Kotor, the slope you’re climbing stays shaded until around 9:30 AM. Try to set off before 9:00 AM, and earlier if you plan on doing a particularly long hike, and you can get a good portion done without being exposed to the sun.

This also means that afternoon is the worst time to hike the Ladder of Kotor, as it’s the hottest part of the day, you’ll be in the sunshine, and the views will be in the shade.

We’d avoid the middle of the day in summer. Much of the route is exposed, and there isn’t a huge amount of shade, so the combination of sustained climbing and Mediterranean heat can make the hike considerably harder than it needs to be.

Spring and autumn are our preferred seasons for the hike, when temperatures are generally more comfortable for a long uphill walk. We loved it at the end of May, but it was very hot by the end of our hike in the early afternoon, and we were slathering on the suncream.

On days when the skies are not clear, the hike’s not really worth it, as clouds can obstruct the views.

Where to stay to hike the Ladder of Kotor

If the Ladder of Kotor is one of your main reasons for visiting, we’d choose to stay in Kotor itself. Being close to the Old Town means you can walk to the trail without worrying about parking or arranging transport first thing in the morning.

Dobrota is another good choice if you’d rather have a quieter base, and it’s still close enough to Kotor that getting to the trailhead is straightforward. The Luštica Peninsula is another great option if you’re looking for a quieter base for a holiday that still has easy access to Kotor.

We personally wouldn’t stay all the way up around Njeguši or Cetinje simply to hike the Ladder from the top. The whole appeal of the route, for us, is starting down in Kotor and watching the landscape change as you climb.

Tips for hiking the Ladder of Kotor

To help you prepare for your Ladder of Kotor hike, here are our top tips:

What to pack to hike the Ladder of Kotor

While it’s not a technical mountain hike, it’s still best to be prepared for your Ladder of Kotor hike. Don’t forget to pack your:

Leave your drone in your accommodation, as you need to apply for a permit before importing it into Montenegro (be aware that it’s illegal to fly in Montenegro’s national parks or near airports anyway).

The Ladder of Kotor Trail vs the Fortress Trail

Although they’re often confused, the Ladder of Kotor and Kotor Fortress Trail are two distinctly different hikes. The fortress route is a short, steep climb of around 1,350 stone steps from the Old Town, while the Ladder is a much longer mountain trail that gradually zigzags towards Krstac Pass.

We can see the appeal of the fortress climb: it’s much shorter than the Ladder of Kotor, allows you to go inside the fort, and still gives you nice views over the city. We wouldn’t recommend the Ladder of Kotor to our parents, but we think they’d be ok with the effort required for the fort, so it’s a good option for non-hikers.

But the steep (no pun intended) entrance fee was enough to put us off, so we personally chose to skip the fortress in favour of the Ladder of Kotor hike.

	Ladder of Kotor	Kotor Fortress Trail
Start point:	Outside Kotor’s Old Town	Inside Kotor’s Old Town
End point:	Top of the ladder or Krstac Pass	San Giovanni Fortress
Distance:	~6 miles (9.5 km) return	~1.5 miles (2.5 km) return
Elevation gain:	~600-900 metres (1,970-2,950 ft)	~220 metres (720 ft)
Terrain:	Gravel, rock, and mountain trail	Stone steps and paved paths
Difficulty:	Moderate	Moderate
Cost:	Free	€15

Ladder of Kotor Hike FAQs

To give you a further impression of the Ladder of Kotor hike, we’ve answered these frequently asked questions.

Is it possible to climb the Kotor Fortress?

The Kotor Fortress (San Giovanni) can be reached on foot from Kotor’s Old Town via the historic city walls. The climb involves roughly 1,350 stone steps and around 280 metres of elevation gain, and most people allow around an hour to reach the fortress, with additional time for photographs and exploring.

It’s important to distinguish this from the Ladder of Kotor. The fortress climb is a relatively short, steep ascent from the Old Town, while the Ladder is a totally different trail that continues much further into the mountains towards Krstac Pass.

What are the differences between the Kotor Fortress trail and the Ladder of Kotor trail?

The Kotor Fortress trail and the Ladder of Kotor trail are two different hikes, although they’re close enough that older guides sometimes make them sound like one route, but the historic combined route is no longer possible to follow. The Kotor Fortress trail follows the old defensive walls directly upwards from the Old Town and is steep, stepped, and relatively short. The Ladder of Kotor is the much longer historic mountain route that zigzags above the city and continues towards Krstac Pass.

The Ladder is therefore more of a proper mountain hike, with a gradual but sustained climb, gravelly and rocky terrain, and considerably more elevation gain. The fortress route is shorter but steeper and involves far more steps.

Is there a way to hike to the Kotor Fortress for free?

There has historically been an unofficial way to reach the fortress from the Ladder of Kotor without using the main paid entrance, but it’s now closed. The access point through the fortress wall has been blocked up again, and our most recent trip confirmed that the old shortcut is no longer available.

Is the Ladder of Kotor still free?

Yes, the Ladder of Kotor trail itself is free to hike. There isn’t an entrance fee for walking the historic mountain trail to Krstac Pass, but if you enter the Kotor Fortress through the main entrances, you will need to pay the €15 fee.

How hard is the Ladder of Kotor?

We personally describe the Ladder of Kotor as moderate, although it depends considerably on your fitness and how far you intend to go. There’s no particularly technical climbing involved, but you’re walking uphill in the sun for several hours and gaining elevation, so it’s beyond easy for most people.

How long does it take to hike the Ladder of Kotor?

If you’re hiking all the way from Kotor to the top of the ladder, allow around 4-5 hours for the climb, depending on your pace and how often you stop.

Is the Ladder of Kotor safe?

We’d say the Ladder of Kotor is pretty safe provided you treat it as a proper mountain hike and prepare accordingly. The route isn’t technically difficult, but there are loose and uneven sections, some steep drop-offs and areas where the rocky terrain can become slippery, particularly on the descent or after rain. Compared to some of the hiking we did in other national parks, it’s a very well-maintained trail.

Read next:

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How to Visit Lovćen National Park & Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš

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