An Ethical Guide to Touching Grey Whales in Baja California Sur

Should you touch a grey whale in Baja California Sur? Here’s where and when to see the friendly grey whales in Baja, ethically.

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The stunning southern state of the Baja California peninsula, Baja California Sur is a state in Mexico and one of the best places in the world to see grey whales due to several protected lagoons along the Pacific Coast. These popular birthing and breeding grounds are world-renowned for hosting friendly whales who seek out human contact. Experiencing the friendly grey whales of Baja California Sur is without a doubt the best thing to do in Mexico. But, as with any animal encounter, it’s important to whale watch responsibly.

This article delves into the history of whale watching in Baja California Sur, addressing whether you can and should touch a grey whale, and answering all your questions about visiting Baja during the grey whale season.

About Baja’s grey whales

Grey whales (or gray whales) go by many names. Their scientific name is eschrichtius robustus and they are also known as greyback whales, Pacific grey whales, Korean grey whales, or California grey whales.

Grey whales are baleen whales, meaning they don’t have any teeth. Instead, they filter feed on the ocean floor. This is what gives them their dappled exterior as they pick up barnacles and other small parasites, which look like white blotches on their grey skin.

Grey whales have small dorsal fins and spiky bumps along their backs, which are called knuckles. We thought their knuckles made them look a bit like sea-dinosaurs.

They only have one predator (besides humans) which is the orca.

Where to see grey whales in Baja

The best place to see grey whales in Mexico is in the state of Baja California Sur. There are three lagoons on the Pacific Coast of Baja California Sur that grey whales frequent:

All three of these lagoons are amongst the best destinations in the world to see grey whales. They provide calm, warm waters with three times the salt content of the open ocean, which are perfect conditions for calving and mating. These nurseries are also protected from predators who hunt in the open waters of the ocean.

Grey whales are also sometimes found down the bottom of the Baja California Sur peninsula in Los Cabos and back into the Gulf of California (also called the Sea of Cortez) on the eastern side of the peninsula near La Paz. They can also be seen migrating up the west coast in the northern state of Baja California, as they make their way back up to the USA and beyond.

Where is the best place to see grey whales in Baja California Sur?

With three grey whale sanctuaries to choose from in Baja, it can be hard to know which lagoon to choose. We’ve elaborated on the locations and their pros and cons below.

El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve

Both Ojo de Liebre (formerly known as Scammon’s Lagoon) and San Ignacio lie in the El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, which is the largest wildlife refuge in Mexico and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ojo de Liebre is the furthest north, sitting approximately halfway between the tip of Baja California Sur and the American border.

San Ignacio sits between Ojo de Liebre and Magdalena Bay and stretches 16 miles (25km) into the desert.

San Ignacio is considered the best lagoon for grey whale encounters, although there’s no evidence to support that the whales there are friendlier. It’s possible that, because it’s the smallest lagoon, the whales are more densely concentrated and easier to find.

Being further north, San Ignacio and Ojo de Liebre are quieter than Magdalena Bay and therefore receive fewer tourists. However, they are also more remote and are difficult to get to without a car or transportation as part of a tour. This can make them more expensive to visit.

Guerrero Negro is the closest town to these two lagoons.

Magdalena Bay

Magdalena Bay sits a 3-hour drive from Baja California Sur’s capital, La Paz, making it the most accessible lagoon. It is also therefore the most popular and the cheapest option for those hoping to see a grey whale.

Magdalena Bay is protected by 2 islands: Isla Santa Margarita and Isla Magdalena and there are three port cities on the mainland that whale watching tours depart from: Puerto San Carlos, Puerto López Mateos, and Puerto Chale.

Grey Whales Baja California Sur Map

When to see grey whales in Baja

Grey whales start to arrive around Baja California Sur in December and have left by April each year.

The best time to see them is at the height of the Baja California Sur grey whale season, from January to March.

With increased global warming, it’s likely that these migration times will shift year on year.

When can you see grey whales in Baja California Sur?

Male grey whales tend to make their way back to the feeding grounds earlier than the females and calves, who are the last to leave the lagoons.

Specifically, we recommend visiting during late February to early March as this is when there is the highest number of whales in the lagoons and you’ll be more likely to see mothers with their calves.

A recent grey whale survey in San Ignacio Lagoon found that the highest number of single whales fell at the end of February with the highest number of babies being spotted from the beginning to middle of March.

Grey whales tend to arrive at Ojo de Liebre first, as this is the first lagoon they reach. Naturally, as Magdalena Bay is the furthest south, they arrive there last and leave a little earlier than the more northern lagoons. So if you plan to visit Baja California Sur at the beginning or end of the season, Ojo de Liebre or San Ignacio might be a better option for you.

Why do grey whales go to Baja California Sur?

Grey whales come to Baja California Sur annually to mate and give birth. They migrate 10,000-14,000 miles (16,000-22,000 km) from the Bering and Chukchi Seas in the Arctic where they feed to the Pacific Coast of Mexico and back again each year. Their time in Baja’s lagoons is also a resting period where they recover from the long journey and conserve energy for the return journey.

Their gestation period is 12 months so they breed and birth in the same lagoons they migrate to annually. Females only give birth to one calf at a time to ensure the calf gets the maximum attention it needs to survive. The lagoons are refuges from threats like predators and vessels that face grey whales in the open ocean. They also provide calm, warm waters for babies to develop in.

What makes Baja’s grey whales special?

You might have already heard, but Baja California Sur is the only place in the world where you can actually touch a grey whale. For some unknown reason, the whales here are really friendly and often approach boats, rubbing up against them and displaying curious behaviours like spy-hopping.

It is an incredibly moving and humbling experience to not only be chosen to be approached by these gentle giants but also to be trusted to interact with them and their calves. Petting grey whales in Baja is never guaranteed and not every whale is a ‘friendly‘ – the nickname given to the whales who seek out human interaction.

It’s speculated that, as the inhabitants of the lagoons are made up of fishing families, the whales became used to the presence of fishermen and formed close bonds with them. It was not uncommon for females to introduce their newly-born calves to the fishermen and therefore those whales grew up to introduce their calves to the boats and so on.

How to see grey whales in Baja

Baja’s grey whale lagoons are an eco-tourism success story. Only small vessels, named pangas, are allowed in the grey whale lagoons. These boats are expertly navigated by local fishermen who also double as licensed tour guides in the winter months. The lagoons get a break from fishing during the whale season while local communities still have a sustainable source of income. In San Ignacio, the Mexican government only permits two fishing boats to fish the waters at any given time, giving fish populations further chance to recover.

Baja California Sur’s grey whale sanctuaries are protected by Mexican law and there are strict rules that tour operators and tourists must follow. Due to the restrictions in place to protect the grey whales, unless you’re lucky enough to see a whale from the shore, you can only see Baja’s grey whales up close as part of a tour. These whale watching boat trips allow you to get up close to grey whales in their natural habitat.

About Baja California Sur grey whale tours

There’s a variety of grey whale watching tours on offer, from day trips to multi-day camps. Day tours usually include transportation to and from your accommodation and one whale watching trip out on the water. Multi-day tours normally include accommodation, food, and multiple whale watching trips, and can include transportation too.

While a day trip is the cheapest way to visit, it’s also the most risky. As whales are wild animals, there’s no guarantee you’ll see them on your first trip. You may get lucky and have an encounter with a friendly who approaches your boat but you also may not see much. Booking an overnight tour with accommodation included is a great way to ensure you have multiple chances to meet a friendly grey whale out on the water.

You can take a whale watching tour at any of the three lagoons on a day trip, but we’d highly recommend choosing an overnight camp. There is nothing in the world like waking up in the middle of nowhere, being able to see whales out in the lagoon as you unzip your tent and then getting on a boat for a day of close-up grey whale encounters.

What time of day are grey whales most active?

Unlike other whale species or whale watching destinations, there’s not necessarily a best time of day to see grey whales. However, there are certain factors that can influence sightings or the likelihood of a whale approaching you.

Generally, early in the morning is the best time to see grey whales. This is normally before all the day tours arrive at the lagoons so they are much quieter. Fewer boats on the water increases your chances of meeting a ‘friendly’. Staying overnight at a camp is the best way to ensure you’re out first thing in the morning and have the water to yourself.

Our experience grey whale watching in Baja

We’d had an incredible time at Magdalena Bay Whales Glamping Camp on Isla Magdalena. Magdalena Bay Whales is a locally owned company with over 45 years of experience whale watching in the lagoon. They really care for the protection and conservation of the whales and their eco-camp is paradise on earth.

Mornings would start with dolphins swimming in front of a stunning sunrise and breakfast in the palapa-style restaurant. Then it was out on the water for a private 6-hour whale watching trip. Our guide was fantastic, so respectful of the whales and very knowledgeable. We saw around 70 grey whales during our three-day stay, as well as a super pod of hundreds of common dolphins.

We were quite conflicted about whether it was ok to have physical interactions with the whales, even though it’s widely accepted. In the end, we didn’t touch a ‘friendly’ but did have some close encounters with some very curious whales who swum up to and around our boat, chilling in the water below us. It was a magical experience and felt really ethical as we had a fantastic guide who took us to parts of the lagoon away from the other boats so we could prioritise intimate encounters over touching a whale.

Can you touch a grey whale in Baja?

Touching a whale isn’t actually condoned by the Mexican government, it’s more of a loophole. In Mexico’s whale watching legislation, harassment, which is defined as an act that interferes with the natural behaviour of whales, is forbidden.

If a boat is approached by a whale it has to stay still with its engines off. Touching whales isn’t mentioned in the law at all and, if the encounter is initiated by the whale and doesn’t disturb their natural behaviours, it’s legal. But is it ethical?

In almost all scenarios, touching wild animals is an unethical experience and is detrimental to the animals’ wellbeing. But in Baja California Sur the whales seek out human interaction. It’s for this reason tourists visit Baja California Sur for the chance to touch, pet and kiss a grey whale. And, because the interaction is carried out on the whales’ terms and with their consent, it’s an exception to the rule.

Having said that, not all grey whales in Baja’s bays are interested in human interaction and it’s important that any contact is carried out at the instigation of the whale, not because the tour boat approaches or gets too close to a whale. It’s also important to manage your expectations when visiting Baja’s lagoons and to choose a licensed company that will respect the whales.

Is it ethical to touch grey whales in Baja?

We’ve established that you CAN touch grey whales in Baja California’s lagoons. But now we’d like to discuss whether you SHOULD. To answer this question it helps to understand the history of grey whales in Baja and how touching them came about.

Grey whales history in Baja

The 19th century saw the start of whaling in Baja California Sur. The grey whale lagoons off Baja California Sur became popular whaling targets, with the first whaling expedition to Ojo de Liebre Lagoon occurring in 1857 and San Ignacio Lagoon in 1860. Both whaling expeditions were led by Charles Melville Scammon, an American whaler. Soon French, Dutch and Russian whaling ships were also operating in the lagoons, slaughtering hundreds of whales as they went.

It’s the whaling trade that gave grey whales their nickname – devil fish – as mothers would fight viciously to save their harpooned calves, destroying boats in the process.

It’s estimated that between 1846 and 1874, approximately 8,000 grey whales were killed by American and European whalemen, with over half of these being killed in Magdalena Bay alone. Whaling in the lagoons contributed to the near extinction of grey whales.

Thankfully, due to strict regulations and protections, the eastern North Pacific (North American) grey whale population has recovered and is now considered of ‘least concern’ by ICUN. It’s now believed there are around 28,000 grey whales globally. Unfortunately, the western North Pacific (Asian) grey whale is still classed as ‘endangered’.

With the decrease in hunting and the increase in whale numbers, a new opportunity arose: whale watching. The first eco-camps in Baja California Sur’s lagoons were established in the 1970s and what followed was a new industry that gave visitors the chance to experience whales in their natural habitat.

The first documented encounter between a friendly grey whale and a human was with a local fisherman named Francisco ‘Pachico’ Mayoral in San Ignacio Lagoon. Knowing grey whales’ fearsome reputation he was initially scared of the whale, who kept approaching and rubbing up against his panga. Eventually, Don reached out his hand to touch the whale, which kept bobbing its head out of the water (spy-hopping) as if asking for more.

Now, touching grey whales is far more widespread than just a few local fishermen bonding with whales.

Are grey whales protected in Baja California Sur?

Mexico has strict legislation for whale watching and is one of the best places in the world for regulating its whale watching zones. Whale watching rules are set by Mexico’s Ministry of Environment, SEMARNAT, the Secretariat of Environment and Natural Resources.

What restrictions are in place?

Mexico is the only country in the world to protect the habitat of the eastern population of grey whales. A marine refuge zone was established by Federal Decree in 1972 for whales in Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, followed by San Ignacio Lagoon in 1979. In 1980, the lagoons of Guerrero Negro were incorporated into this protected area. However, these declarations were deemed ineffective as it was clear to local residents that these areas were still being overfished.

In 1988 Mexico’s President Miguel de la Madrid created a 2.5 million hectare (6.2 million acre) protected area called El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve – Latin America’s largest nature preserve – which encompasses Ojo de Liebre and San Ignacio’s lagoons, as well as the lagoon system known as Manuela and Guerrero Negro. This provides vital habitat protection for two of Mexico’s three grey whale lagoons. Magdalena Bay Grey Whale Sanctuary is not included in this biosphere reserve.

Restrictions in these protected areas include a limit on the number of boats in the protected zones and on human activities (no swimming or chasing whales is allowed). No more than two to four boats can approach a whale at one time and rangers monitor that these rules are adhered to. Boats must turn their engines off in the presence of whales and there are regulations on how quickly they can accelerate when near whales and the angle they can approach from.

Inspectors are present regularly in the lagoons to ensure the rules are followed. They can report companies who are non-compliant and influence the issuing of licenses for the following year. However, they’re not constantly present and bad behaviours can slip under the radar.

Is it okay to touch grey whales?

Most literature online concurs that touching whales in Baja California Sur’s lagoons is not harmful to the animals and is ethical – so long as you travel with a licensed company. But there are still a few things we should bear in mind.

Poor intentions lead to harassment

The main cause for concern in Baja’s grey whale lagoons is the behaviour of boats. The majority of travellers to these lagoons visit with the intention of touching a grey whale. This has only been exacerbated by the increase in social media attention these lagoons are getting. You have to remember that those phenomenal videos of tourists touching, petting, and kissing whales are just the highlight of what’s usually a very long trip. It is still a rare occurrence and never guaranteed.

Tour companies can feel pressured to ensure tourists actually have contact with a whale so they can achieve their goal. They’re scared of disappointing customers who may leave bad reviews or not tip well. This pressure can cause companies to break the rules and indirectly harass the whales by chasing them, getting too close to uninterested whales, or forcing physical contact. Tourists jostling with each other to get closer to whales can also lead to injury and even falling in the lagoon.

We learned that, while most operators advertise grey whale tours as ‘touch the friendly grey whales of Baja’, actually only around 30% of visitors are lucky enough to have this experience. We went out on two 6-hour trips and didn’t encounter a whale that came close enough to be touched. If a company claims they can guarantee a physical interaction, you have to ask yourself what lengths they’ll go to for you to touch a whale and if it’s ethical.

These kinds of behaviours and forced interactions not only break the harassment law but only achieve in scaring the whales off as they simply dive to get away, which is a worse experience for you and the whale who is unlikely to return to that spot. The more boats display behaviours like this, the fewer whales there will be.

Transfer of harmful bacteria and chemicals

Touching any animal can transfer harmful bacteria to humans and vice versa. Touching a grey whale can transfer infectious diseases like brucellosis, which affects the reproductive and nervous systems of marine mammals, to humans and make them sick. Tuberculosis and leptospirosis are two other harmful diseases that can be transferred to humans and affect the lungs and other organs. Whales also have lice, external parasites which can attach themselves to human skin.

Human bacteria can also be transferred to whales and, while it may not harm them, it can be rubbed off and propagated to corals. These bacteria can then damage or kill the corals, which are already dealing with issues like climate change, declining water quality, overfishing, pollution and unsustainable coastal development.

There are no studies to show that touching Baja’s grey whales transmits diseases either way. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t, just that it’s not been researched.

It’s not just bacteria we need to be mindful of. Chemicals in products like sun cream can also be rubbed off onto marine flora, which can damage them and contribute to bleaching. When in or around the ocean, be sure to use a biodegradable, reef-safe sun cream that won’t harm the environment.

Psychological stress can lead to aggression

It’s also worth considering the impact being physically close to a whale can have. Human touch is not a natural behaviour for whales and as such their reaction can be unpredictable. Mothers particularly can be very aggressive if they think the safety of their calf is threatened. Being close enough to touch a whale can cause it stress and, at a weight of 27,000 kg (90,000 lbs), can cause you harm too. A study of humpback whales in Reunion Island found “agonistic behaviours in the presence of swimmers”, some of whom were injured during the experience. When whale watching, it’s generally a good idea to always keep a safe distance, whether on a boat or swimming.

Should you touch a grey whale?

Basically, in any situation that includes wildlife tourism, you should always consider your impact. Superficially, it sounds like a dream to touch a grey whale. And, with a licensed company and a bit of luck, that dream can become a reality in Baja California Sur – a place where whales approach boats on their own terms, seeking human contact.

If you are in a situation where you can touch a grey whale without negatively impacting it or the environment then there’s really no problem. Just be sure to analyse each situation individually and ensure you are confident of the impact (or lack of) of your actions.

The biggest impact you can have is by choosing a licensed company that respects the whales and follows the regulations.

Tips for choosing an ethical tour company in Baja

Baja Grey Whale Resources

Here are some of the papers and articles we found useful when researching the ethics of touching a grey whale in Baja California Sur if you’d like to continue your reading:

Baja Grey Whales FAQs

We hope you’ve found this post interesting and have answered some frequently asked questions to help you plan your trip.

What to pack to see grey whales in Baja

There are a few essentials you won’t want to forget on your trip, including:

What months of the year do grey whales feed on plankton off the Baja Peninsula?

While grey whales do feed on plankton, they do not feed during their time in Baja California; instead, they use the warm waters as mating and birthing grounds in winter and feed in the nutrient-rich waters of the Arctic during the summer months.

Why do grey whales migrate each year from Alaska to Baja California?

Grey whales migrate each year to mate and give birth in the warmer, protected lagoons of Baja California.

How far do the grey whales migrate to get to the lagoons of Baja California?

Grey whales undertake one of the longest migrations of any mammal, travelling approximately 10,000 to 12,000 miles (16,000 to 19,000 km) round-trip from the Arctic to Baja California.

Where is the best place to see grey whales in Baja California?

The best place to see grey whales are the three grey whale sanctuaries in the state of Baja California Sur: Laguna San Ignacio, Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Scammon’s Lagoon), and Bahía Magdalena (Magdalena Bay).

What time of year can you see grey whales?

Grey whales are found in the Baja lagoons from December through April, with the peak season for whale watching typically in February and March.

How rare is it to see grey whales?

Grey whale sightings are common in Baja California during the migration and breeding season in winter but, as they are wild animals, sightings are never guaranteed and depend on the day.

Are grey whales aggressive?

Historically called ‘devil fish’ by whalers due to their defensive behaviour when hunted, grey whales developed a reputation as aggressive whales. However, they are actually one of -if not the – friendliest and most curious type of whale in the ocean.

Are grey whales friendly?

Yes, grey whales are often considered friendly and inquisitive, especially in Baja California’s lagoons, where they sometimes approach boats seeking interaction and human touch.

Do grey whales like people?

Much like humans, whether the whale likes people depends on the individual. Many grey whales seem to tolerate and even enjoy human interaction. Others, will simply dive and swim away when there are boats around.

Do grey whales like to be touched?

Whether grey whales like to be touched depends on the individual. Behaviours including voluntarily approaching boats and allowing people to touch them suggest that certain whales are not only unbothered by human interaction but seek it out as a source of enjoyment. Some evidence suggests they may appreciate certain touches, such as the removal of barnacles, which could provide relief from irritation.

However, it’s essential to interpret this cautiously, which is why it’s essential to go with a licensed and experienced guide. Animals do not communicate their preferences as humans do, and their behaviour might be difficult for us to interpret. These interactions are unique to specific areas where grey whales feel safe, like the lagoons in Baja California.

Why do whales let humans touch them?

This behaviour likely stems from the calm effect of the protected environment of the Baja lagoons. Most whales that seek interactions in these lagoons are pregnant females or mothers who have just given birth to a calf. No one really knows why they seek human interaction out at this time when they are vulnerable – maybe it’s to show off their baby, maybe it’s trust.

It may also reflect a symbiotic relationship, as touching and removing barnacles could provide relief to the whales.

Can you swim with grey whales in Baja?

No, swimming with grey whales is prohibited in Mexico. Interactions are regulated to ensure the safety and well-being of both whales and humans.

Read next:

The Ultimate Guide to Whale Watching in Baja California

An Essential Guide to Magdalena Bay

Our Magdalena Bay Whales Camp Review

Our Baja California Sur Destination Guides:

Our Baja California Sur Travel Guides: